By: Tom Jaine
The Guild has been discussing plagiarism in recent months, and the discussions were quite timely as I read through the recipes used by my stepfather, George Perry-Smith, at his Bath restaurant, The Hole in the Wall, during the 1960s. This was not a time of culinary innovation – that is, people did not invent – but it was one of exploration through travelling, reading, and eating other people's cookery. From the large pot of shared discoveries were pooled the recipes one wished to use: and it was one's personal amalgam that was one's trademark. George drew from Elizabeth David, Pomiane, Louise Bertholle, André Simon and Waverley Root. So if you were to ask me where this recipe for Cherries Laurette comes from, and what the name means, I would have to confess ignorance, but wager that it was from one of those authors.
Cherries Laurette is a raspberry sorbet served with stewed cherries and a nice biscuit.
Sugar as needed
Morello cherries as needed
redcurrant jelly as needed
1. Make a sugar syrup, using 100g of sugar and 115ml of water to each 450g of Morello cherries. Stone the fruit and cook gently in the syrup. Remove the fruit when cooked and reduce the syrup at a brisk boil by one half.
2. Add a spoonful of redcurrant jelly to the syrup and two teaspoonfuls of brandy to the cherries. Pour the syrup over the cherries.
3. Make a raspberry sorbet with 2 lb of raspberries. For this you will need a syrup of 225g of sugar and 115ml of water, plus the lemon and orange juice, and the whites of two eggs. Put the raspberries through a fine sieve to remove the pips, add them to the cooled syrup and the juice. You can then churn this in your ice-cream machine with the whipped whites of egg, or you can freeze the base.
4. Return it to the kitchen to thaw until just workable. Then put it into the electric mixer with the beater attachment; add the egg whites; beat it progressively faster until it is light and airy; and return to the freezer to finish off.
© Recipe copyright 2004 Tom Jaine
Author: Tom Jaine Email: