By: Sam Kilgour
There is something inexpressibly soothing about smoked haddock. It is the savoury equivalent of a rich, hot chocolate on a cold, damp English day. And of all the soothing dishes that can be made with smoked haddock, it has to be kedgeree that is king.
Traditionally associated with English country house breakfasts, kedgeree is the ultimate comfort food: warming, spicy, filling and chewy. This version alters the familiar elements slightly, creating a lighter meal while retaining the distinctive flavours of the original. It's just the thing for a rainy April day.
This recipe provides four modest portions or two greedy ones. Serve with spring greens if you are feeling particularly hungry.
2 red peppers
12 quail's eggs
1 small onion, finely chopped
Large knob of unsalted butter
1 teaspoon good-quality medium-hot curry powder (or home-mixed)
1 cup (250ml) sushi rice (basmati can be used instead)
2 cups (500ml) cold water
300–400g finest quality smoked haddock
Juice of 4 limes
Juice of 1 lemon
Large handful of coriander, finely chopped
Large handful of parsley, finely chopped
Small knob of butter
1. Blacken the peppers with a blowtorch and place in a plastic bag to cool.
2. Boil the quail's eggs for 2 minutes, cool quickly and peel. Slice in half and put to one side.
3. Once the peppers are cool, remove the skin, slice finely and place in a roasting tin with a splash of olive oil. Place in a very low oven to warm.
4. Heat a large sauté pan (it must have a lid) and add the butter. Cook the onion gently until it is soft and translucent, but do not let it brown. Add the spices, and cook for one minute before adding the rice. Stir the rice until it is thoroughly coated and golden. Add the water and turn up the heat. The instant the water comes to a simmer, stir the rice, put the lid on the pan and turn the heat down as low as possible.
5. After 10 minutes remove the rice from the heat and set the pan aside for a further 10 minutes.
6. Meanwhile, slice the fish as thinly as possible, removing any stray bones, and place it flat in a glass dish. Pour over the citrus juice until the fish is covered. Put to one side.
7. Put the rice back on a low heat, add the butter and herbs and stir gently for 2 minutes.
8. Heap generous spoonfuls of rice onto warm plates. Remove the fish from the marinade and place the slices on top of the rice. Add the sliced quail's eggs. Spoon the peppers round the edge of the plate and drizzle the infused olive oil over to finish.
© recipe copyright 2005 Sam Kilgour
Author: Sam Kilgour Email: